Polish grey potato dumplings: szare kluski

Szare kluski are potato dumplings from the Wielkopolska region, made with grated raw potatoes, flour and egg. Spoonfuls of the mixture are dropped into boiling water and served with toppings such as onion and curd cheese. Their colour comes from the raw potatoes darkening after grating.

Ingredients for four servings

• 1 kg floury potatoes
• 1 egg
• About 200 g plain flour, plus more if needed
• 1 teaspoon salt for the mixture, plus salt for the water
• 2 onions
• 2 tablespoons oil or lard
• 200 g curd cheese, to serve
• Pepper to taste

The amount of flour depends on how moist the potatoes are and how thoroughly they are squeezed. Start with the amount given and cook a test dumpling. Too much flour makes dumplings hard; a mixture that is too wet may fall apart. Adjust the onion and cheese toppings to taste.

Preparing the potatoes

Peel and wash the potatoes, then grate them finely into a bowl. Transfer the mixture to a clean cloth or cheesecloth set over a container. Squeeze out the liquid but keep it for now. The potatoes should remain moist without water dripping freely from them.

Let the liquid stand for a few minutes so the starch settles at the bottom. Carefully pour off the water and add the starch back to the potatoes. The grated potatoes will naturally darken, giving the dumplings their characteristic colour.

Mixing and cooking the dumplings

1. Add the reserved starch, egg, salt and most of the flour to the squeezed potatoes. Mix thoroughly with a spoon.
2. Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil, then lower the heat to maintain a gentle boil.
3. Dip a teaspoon in the hot water, scoop up a small amount of mixture and slide it into the water with a second teaspoon. You can also slide portions off the edge of a damp board.
4. Cook one dumpling as a test. If it falls apart, stir a little more flour into the mixture. If it is very hard, use less flour next time.
5. Cook in batches, stirring gently after adding the dumplings so they do not stick to the bottom. Once they float, cook for another 3 to 5 minutes. Cut one open to check that the centre is cooked.
6. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain. Wait for the water to return to the boil before adding the next batch.

The dumplings need not be identical. Small portions cook more evenly, and a gentle boil helps keep them intact.

Onion, curd cheese and other toppings

Peel and dice the onions. Heat the fat in a frying pan and cook the onions over medium heat, stirring until soft and lightly browned. Add the drained dumplings and mix gently. Transfer to plates, scatter over crumbled curd cheese and season with pepper.

Cooked sauerkraut or pork cracklings also work for a more substantial dish. Serve the cheese separately if you prefer. The dumplings are best shortly after cooking, while soft and warm.

How they differ from other dumplings and how to store them

Grey dumplings are made primarily from raw grated potatoes. Kopytka potato dumplings use cooked potatoes pressed through a ricer. Silesian dumplings also start with cooked potatoes and contain potato flour. This affects their colour, texture and shaping.

Cool leftover cooked dumplings promptly, put them in a container and refrigerate. Eat within two days, reheating thoroughly. You can briefly fry them with onion. Use the raw mixture straight away, as its consistency changes as it stands.

FAQ

Why do the dumplings fall apart in the water?

The mixture may be too wet or contain too little flour. Add a small amount of flour and cook another test dumpling. Add portions to boiling water and avoid stirring vigorously.

Do grey dumplings have to be dark?

The shade varies with the potatoes and preparation time. Raw grated potatoes darken naturally, so there is no need to prevent it completely.

Can I leave out the curd cheese?

Yes. It is a topping, not part of the mixture. Serve the dumplings with onion alone or with cabbage.